Day 83-84 7/19-20/01 Whidby Island, WA We sailed on through night and day, watching occasional pods of Orcas ("killer whales") passing near the ship, while life settled into its usual shipboard routine. I sat on the deck for hours at a time, out in the open air, somehow never tiring of the wondrous scenery of island, mountain, and fiord. On the second morning, we came to our final destination, Bellingham Washington. I rolled off the boat and headed south along the shore, along one of the classic drives of the northern Pacific coast. Hilly and heavily forested, I got occasional peeks of the water for the first hour or so until the road flattened out into a valley. After being away from it for so long, it was odd to return to the land of farms, cows, and cornfields - and good to be back on the bike. For the first time in weeks, I was down to shorts and a short sleeve shirt in the warm inland air. Turning westward, I biked past one of the many Indian reservations, complete with casino. Here you can play slot machines and video poker, all in accordance with ancient tribal tradition, of course. Meandering along the road, I came across a small seafood stand. I'm always in search of the perfect bowl of chowder, so I decided to try them out. A mischievous mood caught hold of me - so I ordered a "clam chowder with extra strawberries, please". I try to make everyone's day a little more surreal, which is easy if you place orders for food combinations mother nature never intended. Fruit and clams, now that's a taste sensation. The woman behind the counter, of course, had to ask again as to what I said. Then came the wide-eyed disbelief, and the "can you do that?" look. I don't think she caught on that I was joking; at any rate she just said she was out of strawberries. Some day I'll get my just desserts for these improprieties. I'll order, say, a Tuna milk shake, and someone will actually serve it to me. It was good chowder, but the reigning champion so far (as judged by my own taste buds and no other criteria) is Ivar's in Seattle - and I'd be there soon enough. As I crossed the bridge onto Whidby Island and moved farther in, the air cooled off due to the influence of the chilly waters of Puget Sound. I camped at the state park that night, a popular place, and near the major population center of Seattle. Signs this time of year always say "campground full", but that really just applies to cars and the lack of parking spaces. Instances in my life where I have been refused a campsite when on a bicycle have been very rare.

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