Day 78 7/14/01 Gulf of Alaska Rain and cloudy skies were served for breakfast, but lunchtime brought a clearing and 1-2 foot seas. The ferry stopped at the fishing-and-timber village of Yakutat for a while, and I roamed the nearby woods eating wild berries. It's a landlocked community, without a connecting road to the outside world. There seemed to be plenty of cars, but no place to go. In the entire history of the town, there had only been one traffic accident - the policeman, driving too fast for conditions. One might be exempt from the laws of State, but waivers are never issued for the laws of Momentum. Departing Yakutat yielded uncommonly clear views of Mount St. Elias, and also of the second highest peak in North America, Mount Logan. This peak is well-known among climbers for its remoteness and difficulty of access, since it's a long way from any road. The ferry continued south among endless chains of rocky islands and mountainous coastlines; after all, this is the "ring of fire" where the Pacific and North American geologic plates meet, pushing up strata high into the sky. Beauty ensues, as it always does. Flat spots like Kansas have a sort of beauty too I suppose, but it's harder to write about in grandiose terms. There's both a lot to do, and at the same time a lot of spare time aboard the ferry. People watch the sights for a while, go eat something in the cafeteria, read, chat, eat, play cards or games, eat, stand at a different location to get a new viewpoint, eat....well, you get the idea. The propulsion is diesel-electric, so the engine RPM never changes no matter what the boat's velocity is. Life aboard is not, however, as monotonous as the engine. A park ranger gives talks on wildlife or history of the area every couple of hours; I usually attended. But somehow, I never got tired of just sitting on the deck, looking out over the waters at the rocky coast and occasional passing ships. This is no cruise ship with jazzercise programs and a tennis court. The more stir-crazy passengers can be seen making endless laps around the deck, wondering what to do next, unaccustomed to the sudden lifestyle change. At night, the bar opens up, which can get as rowdy as a bar anywhere. At one point the dancing inexplicably turned topless (the men, not the women). Some sort of dare, I think it was. They really cut a rug, or would have had it not been steel decking.

Yesterday - Today's Photos - Tomorrow