Day 75-76 7/11/01-7/12/01 Mile 5228 Seward, AK I continue to be impressed with the bike trails in Alaska, sometimes in obscure places. I rode one many miles today that was entirely in a remote location, a long way between towns. In actuality it was part of the old roadbed of the Seward Highway, converted to bike trail after the main road was straightened and redone. In the rain, I wheeled into Seward, which a travel brochure had touted as "one of the most beautiful cities anywhere", but I couldn't get quite so worked up about it. It was nice, to be sure, and would have probably been a lot nicer had it not been for the continuous rain the entire time I was there. I've taken to getting bits of extra food and handing it out at whatever hostel I happen to stay in. Today at a grocery store I saw a half gallon of ice cream on sale at a cheaper price than a single cone at a stand, so I got it. At the hostel I asked if anybody wanted some; this is ostensibly the dumbest question I have asked on my entire trip. Seven backpackers can reduce a carton of ice cream to scraps in mere seconds. The Alaska Sealife Center in Seward is a worthwhile place to visit. Watch sea lions play; touch live anemones, starfish, and other sealife with your bare hands; see seabirds dive and swim in the glass tanks two stories tall. It would seem that the Common Murre is a master of three dimensions - in addition to flying anywhere it wants as a bird, it can dive to a mind-boggling 600 feet, far beyond human capability. How it developed the ability to go to such extreme depths and still be a competent flyer is a genetic mystery. Some species have all the luck. Question of the day ------------------- Q. OK, so you have a bizarre fix for loneliness, but do you ever get bored on your travels? A. Yes, and in fact I am bored at this very moment while waiting for the ferry. Mostly I am bored with having ordinary, double-helix shaped DNA; it's been done to death, ever since the paramecium. It would be much more trendy to have DNA based on, say, a quadruple oblate metatoroidal coplanar octahedral transverse decapole with Mobius-strip crosslinks (to the untrained eye this looks more like a pile). I have several methods lined out to accomplish this; if they all fail, my last resort is to jump into a Cuisinart and hope for the best.

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