Day 59
6/25/01
14,200' Camp, Denali
Acclimatization/rest Day
This is one of those days climbers let their bodies adjust to the
altitude. You take it easy, tend to gear, lay around, read route
info, or talk with other climbers if there are any.
There are several conditions which afflict the human body at high
altitude, which in general can only be avoided by allowing time for
the body to adjust.
1. AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). Not usually terribly serious, this
is marked by loss of appetite, nausea, headache, and a variety of
other normally minor symptoms. Uncomfortable, but symptoms usually clear by
themselves after a few days or by descending a few thousand feet.
2. HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema). More serious, this condition
is caused when the lungs fill with fluid. Obviously cause to descend
as soon as possible. Victims may be too weak to carry their own
packs.
3. HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema). Deadly, and immediate descent
is required. When the brain case fills with fluid, victims are
confused, unable to walk without stumbling (or at all), and must be
evacuated without delay.
Undocumented in medical journals is a much more common malady,
affecting most every climber:
HAFE (High Altitude Flatulent Emissions). If you inflate a balloon at
sea level and take it to high altitude, the low ambient pressure will
cause it to inflate even more. 'Nuff said.
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