Day 33
5/30/01
Mile 3207
Near Pink Mountain, BC
I had a pretty hard time getting going this morning. I seem to live
in a perpetual sleep deficit. I managed to get up about 8am, feeling
almost hungover from biking in the rain yesterday. I tried to take a
shower. No water. I called the owner, who checked and found a pipe
had burst. A plumber was called, and I waited a while in vain, eventually
leaving to eat breakfast. It was after 10:30 by the time I bought
groceries and hit the road.
And those roads were good. It was a little dusty at times, due to
trucks entering the highway from muddy side roads, like a child
tracking muddy shoes across the carpet.
All day, there were dark clouds somewhere on one of the four
horizons. Around 5pm, one got me, and I put on all the raingear I had
since it looked like it would be there a long time. But it wasn't; it
cleared up after only half an hour, and I'd done overkill on the gear.
I stopped at a little cafe in Wonowon, and ate a salad and a chicken
sandwich. I asked the waitress if she had seen any other bikers, but
she'd only been there a week.
I continued on, noticing the hills getting longer and steeper. I'd
need to see if I could trim down some gear since that's going to be
the terrain for the next couple of weeks.
I have more trouble with my pocketmail device with Canadian payphones,
especially the farther north I go into remote areas. Sometimes I have
to dial back 10 or more times to get a successful transmit or receive
session. Apologies.
I'm surprised at how little traffic there is. I mean, this is THE
Alaska Highway we're talking about here, the only road for moving a
lot of important stuff. Sometimes there are gaps of 10 minutes or more with
no cars in sight.
The time zone changed at the BC border, but it seemed to make little
difference when it came to "nightfall". There's still enough light to
see past 11pm, and it starts getting light again at a ridiculous 3am.
I pitched my tent, hung my food bag in a tree, climbed into my
sleeping bag, and put my knife and bear spray within easy reach. I'll take
this over a hotel any day.
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