Day 17
   
   5/14/01
   Mile 1800
   North of Greybull, WY
   
   I had dragged my wet tent away from the sprinklers in the middle of
   the night, which I hadn't seen in the dark because they were recessed, and
   got up in the morning to do the standard routine.  I made another call
   to the tent manufacturer, but they told me no progress had been made
   on the condensation problem, although they were aware of it.
   
   It was cool but not cold, and I went to fill my tanks with the biker's
   secret fuel: cappuccino from a gas station.  They're everywhere
   nowadays, full of sugar and caffeine, ready to get your motor running.
   I keep two standard plastic water bottles on my frame, and a third metal one
   in my rear pack for this purpose - it stands up to hot liquids.
   
   I headed due north from Shoshone, and in the space of five miles the 
   scenery changed from desperately dull to highly interesting.  Whereas the
   landscape was previously desertlike, this area could only be described as
   desert.
   
   And then I came to Wind River Canyon.
   
   This was, without question, fabulous.  A lake on the south side is
   held back by dam; once you cross the dam, you pass through several
   tunnels and enter a beautiful area where the river cuts down through
   towering canyon walls as it heads north, spilling over rapids and giant
   boulders.
   
   This is an excellent ride for anyone interested.  Since it follows the
   river north, it's all downhill, with a few short exceptions.  There is
   no better way to see it than on bicycle - you can take your time to
   see anything you want, and not have people honking their horns behind you
   because you're driving too slow.
   
   You'll need only your standard repair kit, some food, and water.  Have
   someone drop you off at Shoshone, or  at the head of the dam.  They
   can pick you up in Thermopolis, 32 miles from Shoshone.  However, the
   shoulders are narrow, and you should think twice before having young
   children drive their own bikes due to traffic concerns.  There are
   many pull-off areas.
   
   I spent a couple of hours here, absorbing the scenery, not caring
   about the time, enjoying the area and my good fortune to be in it.  These
   are the moments that will be with me all the days of my life.
   
   I wheeled into Thermopolis, which advertises "the world's largest
   mineral  hot springs".  The forecast was for record high, and it was
   already near 90; the prospect of sitting in a steamy hot bath didn't sound
   very appealing, so I kept going.  Yesterday's head wind was now a tailwind,
   and I rocketed downhill the almost 30 miles to the town of Worland in
   barely more than an hour.
   
   To the northeast lie the Bighorn Mountains: on the western horizon lie
   the peaks of Yellowstone National Park.  Both are snow-capped.
   Uphills resumed, and I reached Greybull about 6pm.  Not ready to quit for the
   day, I saturated myself and drank as much as I could, filled all 3
   water bottles, and headed out across the desert.  There were a lot of hills
   but very rare traffic.  I pedaled until dusk and set up camp in the
   wide-open range.
   
   In distinct contrast to yesterday, today had been wonderful, and I
   took the time to reflect on the trip thus far.  I had seen and done so much
   that even to stop now would be satisfying.  After two and a half weeks
   without a day off, I was still going strong, and was now an entire day
   ahead of schedule, with 100 miles "in the bank".
   
   It was beginning to feel like an around-the-world-in-eighty-days
   adventure, with the best, and toughest, yet to come.
   
   North!

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